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Editor'S Choice - 2020

L'Escaleta, go down to the cook of heaven

The documentary 'And in each lentil a god' delves into the memory and legacy of the restaurant run by Kiko Moya (2 Michelin Stars) to talk about its present and its future.

Kiko Moya, Luis Moya and Alberto Redrado. © And in each lentil a god

“Every time I eat rice, I remember Pepe,” he says. Juan Echanove to camera on his friend Pepe Sancho, while he puts in his mouth a fork of the already famous Squared rice from Kiko Moya, in L'Escaleta, where he shares a table with Tonino Guitián, While both share memories.

Of memories goes And in each lentil a god, the documentary that goes into the restaurant's cupboards L'Escaleta, in its roots and its landscape to extract a real, honest and poetic vision. It is a different cinematic approach to this type of tape, an attempt to answer the universal questions of where we come from, where we are and where we are going from the stove and dishes, from memory and legacy.

Redrado and Luis Moya. © And in each lentil a god

“We did not want to make a report of L'Escaleta”, says Kiko Moya, chef of L'Escaleta and protagonist of the film, of course, together with his little brother, Luis, screenwriter, whose return to the restaurant, the town, Cocetaina, serves as a narrative axis. “We wanted to talk about emotions, feelings. In the end, gastronomy is almost like an excuse to talk about certain things that are universal, things that could happen in as many trades. We work in the kitchen, but also in the field of sensations and there are certain reflections that we do every day and we wanted to tell here in a very natural way, fleeing from the typical ”.


Written by Luis Moya and Miguel Ángel Jiménez, who also directs, and presented at the last San Sebastian Film Festival in the Culinary Zinema section, And in each lentil a god It is a documentary that had been ruminating for years and, finally, they were able to shoot this winter, in a trip that goes from Cocetaina, “the little town in the mountains of Alicante”, where L'Escaleta is and the Moya were born and grew up; to Xavea, Benidorm, Madrid, Barcelona or Roses.

There are no camera interviews, there are conversations between the members of the two families and the two generations that they launched L'Escaleta 38 years ago and those who continue to run it. Ramiro and Franciso, and Kiko and Alberto. Parents, children, uncles, nephews, cousins. "The future does not happen to do what they did," says Kiko at a time in the movie. But it does happen to know the importance of those roots.

Memory and legacy. Kiko Moya cooking with her children. © And in each lentil a god

“I think that in this life the most important teachings are the ones you take for granted, the ones you don't question, and Alberto, my cousin, and I we have been fortunate to have lived in a family restaurant where work was the engine ”, Kiko Moya account. “Now, luckily or unfortunately, it is so important to do the job well as to advertise that you do it well. But I have been fortunate to start in this where the kitchen and sincere work, the treatment of the product and honesty when selling your work was the most important. This is for me the legacy that I carry from Ramiro, chef, my uncle, is the most important thing. On that basis, from there you can build any type of cuisine, any story, being honest with yourself and your customers. ”

Build in a sustainable way, yes. If something makes clear the documentary is the healthy and grounded idea that Kiko Moya has of a job increasingly elevated to stardom. “You have to go down to the cook of heaven”, he says at one point in the film, while intercalating scenes of him cooking with his children, touring with his brother the landscapes in which they pivot and the places in which they have been formed, such as ElBulli, where Moya spent some time.

Francisco, father of Kiko and Luis Moya and L'escaleta. © And in each lentil a god

“On many occasions you go outside and you have an image, for me, a little distorted and excessively amplified of what your trade is. It interests who takes you for getting big and yourself too, but when you get home you come back or you must be that person again, with children, parents, that everyone knows, who knows who you are, know what you are capable of, they don't treat you like that pseudodios ”, Moya expands in the interview. "That perspective should not be lost when you are in a family restaurant like this, here it is difficult to be lifted to heaven."

That makes the ambition for the third Michelin Star - the first was achieved by Ramiro and Francisco; the second, Kiko and Alberto- do not go over a full personal life. “There are chefs who say they pass from the stars. I'm not in that line, ”says Moya. “Of course, it has been very good for us to have the second and hopefully we will reach the third, but there are always paths and shortcuts. We know what formulas would have to be followed to achieve it and that it entails a greater sacrifice of all; and I believe that there has to be a sustained growth of your environment, I speak of family, work and clients. Not only grow for your ambition, but also for your environment. ”

Luis and Kiko Moya in the Nevero. © And in each lentil a god

Although they had been with the documentary for years, the chance wanted their production to be crossed with that of a book that will also summarize the history of L'Escaleta. The realization of both has been for Kiko Moya as a “move in which you force yourself to take everything out, order it, put it in boxes”. “For me it has been a very useful tool, to see what is really important and what is not. In that sense, I want to take it off me and move on. It is a point and often, we end here and continue ”,bill.

And how is that future? “This year that we are finishing has been very crazy, I need the time and space to reflect, returning to the kitchen is necessary ”, answers. “I am a person who likes to be in the kitchen to think about cooking, and I have a hard time doing it outside of it. We have to live between the kitchen and the world of public exposure of your work and my person; and for me this world of social networks, the parties are slippery, it is a world in which I do not move quite well. I don't mind being there, but I need to go back to the kitchen now. ”

Documentary written by Luis Moya. © And in each lentil a god

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