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Editor'S Choice - 2020

Tirso de Molina: the "Brooklyn" market in Madrid

Its structure attracts architecture lovers, the chef Javi Estévez He frequents his bakery stand and his gastronomic options range from Chinese food to canned food, vermouth or vegan cuisine. Its about Tirso de Molina market and, although few know him outside the neighborhood, he will give a lot to talk about.

La Lattina, one of the gourmet stalls in the Tirso de Molina market © © Photography by Manuel Montero, Punto a Punto, SL

Built in 1932, the Tirso de Molina market is not in the traditional square of the same name but in the Puerta del Ángel neighborhood, surrounded by the Casa de Campo and just a walk from the center of Madrid.

Nicknamed as Bruclin by some neighbors because of its location across the river Manzanares, the arrival of Madrid Rio has revitalized the neighborhood, which in addition to continuing to enjoy the mythical concert hall La Riviera, for a few years now has artist studios, a vegetarian bar with "marginal music" and even food trucks weekends.

Across the river: "Bruclin" © Alamy

The market, built by the architect Luis Bellido, also responsible for the Slaughterhouse of Madrid, is one of the last existing examples of the civil architecture of the Second Republic. In 1936 a howitzer exploded against its structure and today you can still see shrapnel remains between its beams while ordering at the fruit shop.

Among their positions there are several surprises:

The Casito Juanito is frequented by the chef Javi Estévez, who buys the raw material for his restaurant there La Tasquería, while Jose variants, one of the most veteran positions, has everything you need to prepare a Madrid appetizer, with endless varieties of olives, gildas, lupines and loins of smoked sardine.

Since this summer the market also has several bars where you can enjoy a unique gastronomic option in full bruclin heart and expect several new openings over the next few months.

Market of Tirso de Molina Market © © Photography by Manuel Montero, Punto a Punto, SL

Paula's Bar: tripe with chopsticks

When Paula Bao Zhu Lin He took the one that at that time was the only bar on the market, he knew he had found his place. Now she is the owner and mistress of her little market, where she awaits her clients with a salt shaker and good humor, known throughout the neighborhood.

Of Chinese origin but based in Madrid since 93Paula prepares all kinds of creations in her tiny kitchen, both Chinese and Spanish. Of course: always with chopsticks. The cane is accompanied with tapas ranging from vegetables in tempura, chinese eggplants or scrambled potatoes. His letter focuses on Asian options -dimsum, tuna tartare, duck with orange sauce, fish meatball soup or marinated ribs - but also masterfully prepares a wide selection of Spanish food It varies daily according to customer requests and what you bought in the market that morning.

His tortilla is famous among bruclinites and their corns delight their market mates, but their star dish is undoubtedly the caramelized chicken; Crispy and coated with black sesame seeds. The menu of the day, to choose between Chinese or Spanish options, includes two dishes, drink and coffee at a neighborhood price: nine euros.

Tirso de Molina Market © © Photography by Manuel Montero, Punto a Punto, SL

La Lattina: time for vermouth

This little post run by Leticia Bonón and Nacho Varela, from the old and bad restaurant Bufalino, combines a canned specialty store with a tasting bar. His intentions? Offer quality handicrafts. Its counter exhibits a careful selection of Mediterranean products, from pasta with designation of origin, cream of boletus edulis, natural lemonade, artisanal jams, exotic sauces and all kinds of preserves.

In addition, La Lattina arrives to fill an important gap in the neighborhood: the vermouth. They offer up to twelve different types, which rotate month by month. Among them stand out the one of the house, Bodegas Peral, from Colmenar de Oreja, and Espinaler, a vermouth from Barcelona. They also have a careful selection of wines and craft beers from Madrid.

El Vegicano / La Mercantina © D.R.

La Mercantina and El Vegicano: meeting point of omnivores and vegetarians

Patricia García and Fernando Mata They inaugurate a new concept: two restaurants in a single space. La Mercantina offers market cuisine -value the redundancy-, with dishes as varied as tuna poké, Iberian secret curry or carrion bao, while the Vegicano specializes in vegan food with Mexican influences, such as its vegetable tinga huaraches, roasted eggplants with mole And delicious lentil burgers.

Two proposals joined by a fresh kitchen with personality that creates a bridge between vegans and omnivores, since their menu of the day has options of both restaurants, all washed down with organic wine, craft beer and gluten free or tap vermouth.

Like La Lattina, on weekends they extend their schedule, opening from 7:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. They also organize concerts in their space as part of their initiative “Music in the market" “The market is the core, it is the way to unite the neighborhood. That is what makes up an urban space, ”says Fernando.

Video: Tirso de molina (February 2020).

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