Roller Dani Garcia
Excess, colors, sensitivity, character, race, tradition, fuss, talent. Dani Garcia (without pretending it, I am sure) he reaches the maturity of his kitchen as an impeccable representative of the colors of an Andalusia in a permanent boiling state.
The road has not been easy. Not easy. “I’m Dani García, cook”, so the documentary starts Deconstructing Dani García which portrays the particular Born Again (his fall and resurrection) of this chef born at the edge of the spits in Marbella. We review his particular via crucis: after the closure of Manzanilla in New York and the complicated departure from Calima, Dani returns to kilometer 0, to the chef's ordeal without a restaurant, and now what?
Your home © Dani García Restaurant
ONCE UPON A TIME IN MARBELLA
His house is called Dani García Restaurant and it is Puente Romano Beach Resort & Spa (its walls of white lime and its garden with hundreds of tropical flowers) who opted for the enthusiasm and ticking of this crazy hat from the stove. His home is DG Restaurant and it is there that this story should begin, precisely in the square (the nerve center of the hotel) that houses the millenary (S.I.D.) Puente Romano that gives its name to its house, your shelter.
Puente Romano Beach Resort & Spa © D.R.
Last visit, that weekend of March (Four hands) but let's go to the important thing: its menu Habia una vez start with a golden key and a locked box. Beyond the packaging (an aesthetic and storytelling that drinks from Lewis Carroll's sources and Alice in Wonderland) Twenty plates, twenty small stories are presented on the table in search of a happy ending.
The trip in DG is long and each season a fable. Its iconic is not missing Nitro Tomato ("When tomato nitro met oyster ceviche") and the succession of dishes (accompanied by cards from a deck, which does not stop the story counter) where I perceive a Dani freer than ever: recreation of Andalusian cuisine from the perspective of a "creator", Dani remains faithful to his obsession with the product and maybe (maybe) a little less focused on technological pirouette (I'm glad). Chateaubriand crab, gazpachuelo malagueño, Marbella whiting, sea bass fried with black pepper ... and that Up that is impossible not to fall in love with:
The truth ahead: I'm happier in BiBo -the brasserie that completes the gastronomic offer of Dani García in Puente Romano. His "little brother" (although the expression is insufficient) It is a more casual space, thug and relaxed where Dani does not put limits (neither geographical nor conceptual) to his tapas. International and radically free cuisine, where a cheek curry, white garlic oyster, a sea bass tiradito or a fantastic shrimp omelette fits. Better, if possible, in the bar.
García's most thug space © BiBo Brasserie
I know that both spaces are not comparable (room, product, concept, service ...) but reflection is inevitable: a gastronomic restaurant (two or three Michelin stars) has to offer us an absolutely radical experience (I think of Diverxo, Mugaritz or Nerua) to that the trip makes sense, because otherwise ... Why not always BiBo, StreetXo or Canalla? Why pay three times more if the experience is not memorable?
I almost cried with her Brioche Cojonudo, so I beg Dani (I demand!) The recipe: "A good sausage crumbled and sauteed with sweet onion and our Chipotle sauce, in a very special brioche that we make in the restaurant and topped with a fried quail egg."
Brioche Cojonudo © D.R.
AND WHAT OF MCDONALD'S
I ask Dani for his dream restaurants: “Alinea, Mugaritz and Celler de Can Roca” and also, of course, for his sound collaboration with McDonald's (before which so many gourmets shouted in the sky): the version of his hamburger "Grand McExtrem Bibo by Dani García" that (do not doubt it) is the first of more collaborations that we will see between multinationals of the restoration and chefs of gleaming. It is what it is. Dani is sincere: "I am super satisfied, selling between 50 thousand and 60 thousand burgers of BiBo daily in Spain is to be more than satisfied, I would do it again."
More than 7 million hamburgers.
The inevitable question: does this serve to democratize haute cuisine or to betray (a little) the values of that gastronomy we love so much?
* You may also be interested ...
- Sex, gastronomy and jazz quartets
- Guide to understand Michelin stars
- The 25 best hamburgers in Spain
- The map of the good life
- The 51 best dishes in Spain
- All the tablecloth and knife
- All articles by Jesús Terrés
The teacher, creating © Dani García Restaurante